Video - How to make a leather belt with or without stitching?

VIDEO TUTORIAL:

1. WHAT LEATHER SHOULD I CHOOSE TO MAKE A BELT?

We recommend that you select vegetable tanned leather (i.e. leather without heavy metals: use of vegetable tannins) at least 3 mm thick. The ideal for making a belt is to choose cowhide. The parts of the leather to favor are the butt : this is the noblest part of the leather (and therefore the most expensive) or the collar which remains a very resistant part of the leather.

You can choose a leather strap directly (already cut) or take a whole hide and cut your own strips using a strap cutter.

HOW TO USE A STRIP CUTTER?

ADVICE :

Depending on where the strips are stored and also on the season (high heat, for example), the leather can become very dry and therefore difficult to work with. We recommend nourishing the crust side and the slices with neatsfoot oil before any work (to prevent the grain from cracking). Do not nourish pull-up, oily or already nourished leather.

2. WHICH BELT BUCKLE SHOULD I CHOOSE?

The choice of buckle is specific to each person: everything will depend on the desired aesthetic. Most often, belts are made with a pin buckle or a claw buckle.
But there are many variations: double buckle, double prong buckle, western buckle, belt buckle, etc.

WHAT WIDTH FOR MY BELT?

The width of your belt will depend on the width of the buckle selected (or vice versa). The average width of a belt is 35 mm (standard).

SEE ALL LOOPS >

3. HOW TO CHOOSE THE LENGTH OF YOUR BELT?

SIZE GUIDE
In general, the commercial size of the belt corresponds to the distance between the buckle and the 3rd hole. Namely, you must be able to tighten your belt at the third hole without leaving tightening marks on the leather: this is the ideal size.

If you want to make your own belt: take one of your belts and measure the length between the end of the leather at the buckle and the hole you usually use OR measure your waistline directly. To this measurement add 15 cm for the end of the belt and about 10-12 cm for the loop. You now know the length of strap needed!

The table below is given for information purposes only (it is in no way an absolute truth) .

To know the total length of strap needed we subtracted 5 cm from the commercial size (average length of a belt buckle) and added 26 cm to our measurement: 15 cm for the last 2 holes/end of the belt and approximately 11 cm for the loop.

For this tutorial, we made two size 40 belts, with a total length of 111 cm. The black belt is 30 mm wide and the tan London belt is 34 mm wide.

Tip (if you have to create a lot of belts): create belt length markers in your workshop to save time and gain precision.

4. HOW TO WORK THE BELT END?

After having defined the length of the strap, you must cut it and work at the same time on the end of the belt using:

• of a belt end punch
• a plexiglass template and a cutting tool (be careful not to cut in one go but in quarters otherwise you risk not having a nice cut - see video).

Several shapes are possible: round, ogive, saddle, trapezoid...

Here is a video on the so-called "quarter" cutting technique to cut a round cleanly. Here we use a straight paring knife.

5. HOW TO MAKE HOLES IN A LEATHER BELT?

A leather belt usually has 5 holes with an average spacing of 2.5 cm (center to center). The choice of the hole diameter is made according to the width of the buckle pin (on average: 3.5 / 4 mm in diameter). The first hole is located 10 cm from the edge.
You can use the Deco Cuir self-centering template to make your holes more quickly and precisely.

THE 5 BELT HOLES

6. WHAT SIZE BUCKLE SHOULD I USE FOR MY BELT BUCKLE?

The lug is the oblong hole through which the buckle's tongue passes.

Set the cutting width according to the size of the barb and the length according to the thickness of the leather (standard length: 25 mm).

The loop is usually located about 8-10 cm from the edge . Be careful if you have chosen a claw buckle, skip this step, there is no need to make a loop.

Tip: You can moisten the strap (split side) at the bending area to prevent the leather from getting damaged and also to flex the leather more easily.

BELT WITH SEAM:

Make the chapure directly on the leather strap.

BELT WITH CHICAGO SCREWS OR RIVETS (WITHOUT SEWING):

In the leather strap: cut a strip of 12-13 cm and make the chapure. This piece of at least 10 cm will allow you to attach the belt buckle to your leather strap using Chicago screws or rivets. Its main advantage: being able to be repositioned at will if you want to shorten the leather strap.

This part can be completely split/thickened to avoid significant excess thickness.

2 SOLUTIONS FOR MAKING A BRACKET

1- Using a cookie cutter.
2- Make 2 holes using a round punch cutter then join them with a cutter and a ruler.

7. SQUARE THE LEATHER

Using a size 2 edger: chamfer the leather on the grain side and the crust side (on both sides of the leather). The edger makes the edges more rounded to reduce friction (comfort and aesthetics).

If you are a beginner or if your leather is thin, we advise you to make the decorative line (see step 9) before beveling the leather: to be sure to have a straight line.

8. HOW TO MAKE A BELT LOOP?

The loop holds the end of the buckle in place once it is attached: it must perfectly match the width of your belt.

To determine its length, add the dimensions of 2x belt width and 4x belt thickness.

For example, for a strap 35 mm wide and 3 mm thick, the loop will have a length of: 82 mm (35x2) + (3x4).

The belt loop is generally made from thinner leather (split leather) than that of the belt.
Standard dimensions:
- Width of the loop: 13 mm
- Leather thickness: 2 mm

In addition, the standard indicates that the loop must be located 3 stitches from the buckle. This must of course be adjusted depending on the choice of buckle (e.g. for a double buckle, the loop cannot be at 3 stitches).

As for the assembly of the loop, several possibilities are available to you. We invite you to watch our video (at the beginning of this tutorial) or to refer to step 11 to learn more. The different possibilities are:
1- Assembling the loop with a staple.
2- Split the ends of the loop and integrate it into the seam of the strap.
3- Sewing the ends of the loop.
Possibility of using a belt loop pliers or mandrel: the belt loop pliers attach to the saddler's pliers (reducer) and allow you to hold the leather belt loop when sewing by hand (saddle stitch). The mandrel will allow you to make and shape (to the right size) your belt loops.
4- Choose a metal loop.

9. DECORATIVE NET AND SLICE WORK

To obtain beautiful finishes, there are several ways to work vegetable tanned leather:
- Work the slices with a slice finish or a finishing gum (tokonole, gum arabic, gum tragacanth).

• Sand the slices with a fine abrasive sponge.
• Apply a first coat of stain (light coat) with the tool of your choice (awl, brush, roller pen, etc.).
• Sand the slices again.
• Apply a second coat of stain.
• Optional: wax the slices with beeswax.

- Decorative thread 2 mm from the edge: hot marking (threading iron) or cold marking (former, leatherworker's threading iron) of the leather.

To go even further into detail, you can also make a decorative net on the crust side.

Little tips to make your belt even more unique: work the edges with a changing color, mark your belt with stamps (for example alphabets), emboss the leather (embossing wheel)...

HOW TO WORK THE CRUST SIDE OF THE BELT?

You can work the crust side of the belt with a finishing eraser (if the leather is very fluffy): the eraser helps to stick the leather fibers together. You can also let the leather develop a patina over time.

EXPAND YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH ONE OF OUR GUIDES:

10. HOW TO ATTACH THE BUCKLE TO THE BELT? WITH OR WITHOUT SEWING.

1- ATTACH THE BUCKLE WITH CHICAGO SCREWS OR RIVETS
FAVORITE METHOD

Discover our 2 complete kits to get started in making leather belts (kits with or without tools):

If you choose the Chicago screw version you can adjust the length of the belt (shorten it) as you wish (useful if you do not know the person's height). In addition, you can change the belt buckle if it is no longer to your taste.

Note: we recommend that you choose screws with a diameter of 10 mm and a center distance of 8 mm.

See step 6 for the small 12-13 cm strip with the chapure.
Make 2 holes 1.5 and 4 cm from each end of the 12-13 cm strip. Pass the buckle pin through the loop. Then pass the belt loop. Position the 12-13 cm strip on the leather strap and mark the position of the holes then drill. Screw in the Chicago screws while wedging the belt loop.

2- CHOOSE A CLAW BUCKLE

A claw belt buckle is very easy to install: simply clip it / fold the claws over the end of the leather strap. There is no need to make a bezel to install a claw buckle.

Take the opportunity to discover our vegetable tanned leather belts sewn in Brittany by a craftsman. All that's left to do is choose a claw buckle!

3- ATTACH THE LOOP WITH A HORIZONTAL SEAM

For any belt (with stitching) it is advisable to use hand stitching and more precisely saddle stitching. You will be sure to have a solid seam.

GUIDE - SADDLE STITCH SEWING >

Method #3: Make a 8 cm seam on the 2 lengths (parallel to the edge). This requires a bit of technique because you have to insert the loop between the 2 thicknesses of leather and integrate it into the seam.

This is the technique most appreciated by craftsmen because there is little friction on the wire and therefore more resistance.

4- ATTACH THE LOOP WITH A HORIZONTAL HOLE STITCH

This method is generally chosen for beginners who do not have the tools or technique to do a saddle stitch.

Tips:
- Read our guide on simplified sewing (leather holes).

GUIDE - HOLE SEWING >

- Download the paper template to pierce your strap.

DOWNLOAD THE TEMPLATE >

- The steps are almost similar to method 3. We recommend trimming the end of your strap to avoid creating excess thickness. The diameter of the holes is 1.5 mm (we recommend making smaller holes of 0.9 mm / 1 mm).

5- ATTACH THE LOOP WITH A VERTICAL SEAM

This method is generally chosen for machine sewing. It allows for a movable loop and requires a little less technique than the previous method. The seam will be more subject to friction.

Tips:

• To have a nice point on the sides: do not scratch them but only work them with the round awl.
• Roughen the crust side of the leather before gluing and sewing to strengthen the adhesion of the glue (use a leather rasp) .
• Start and end the seam with a saddle stitch.
• To avoid weakening the leather: do not scratch too close to the edge (at least 0.5 cm).

10. HOW TO MAKE A BELT WITH CURVY?

Craftsmen sometimes use SALPA to reinforce or add volume to their belt. SALPA is usually found between two layers of leather. We recommend that you select vegetable tanned leather that is rather supple.

11. HOW TO PROTECT AND NOURISH MY LEATHER BELT?

Before enjoying your belt, don't forget to wax or grease it (except nourished leather). You can then maintain your leather with a nourishing cream and a shoe polish. We recommend blonde panda grease.

IT'S OVER! WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE VERSION?

WHERE CAN I FOLLOW A WORKSHOP TO MAKE MY OWN LEATHER BELT?

For an afternoon, come and make your own leather belt in our workshop located in Campbon between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire (44 - Loire Atlantique).

LEARN MORE ABOUT TRAINING >