For this tutorial we do not offer free downloads of the pattern.
GET THE PATTERN
Two options for purchasing the pattern:
- in digital version (PDF to print in real size and assemble)
- in paper version (poster B1 that you will receive at home).
On sale on our site!
THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
To complete this tutorial, you will need:- 1 soft leather skin of 0.55 m² (area given as an indication) - approximately 1 mm thick OR for the hand-stitched version: firmer leather from the Venus range (leather not followed).
- 8 rolling eyelets and installation tools - Ø11 mm
- 4 rectangular loops - dimensions 25 x 8 mm
- 1 belt buckle - width 25 mm
- 1 TOP magnetic clasp Ø 14 mm - ROUND
- 4 flat brass bag feet to screw on - Ø 11 mm
- 1 set of 10 T3 double cap rivets
- 1 TEXON reinforcement plate - 20 x 30 cm - thickness 0.8 mm
- 1 coupon of alcantara microfiber for lining - 0.50 x 1.40 m
- The pattern in real size
- 1 cutter or scissors
- Double-sided adhesive tape
- Tear-proof tape
- Sewing pliers
- Contact glue for leather
For machine sewing:
- 1 spool of polyester thread No. 30 (diameter 0.41 mm)
- Leather needle n°100
- Teflon foot
For hand sewing:
- 1 spool of 100m of braided and waxed polyester thread - Diam. 0.80 mm
- 1 ROUND cookie cutter - Ø 1.20 mm
- 2 saddler needles - round tip - Size 1/0 - Ø 1.1 mm
CHOICE OF LEATHER
For the classic version : we recommend soft nappa lamb leather for a classic family machine. For a more powerful or industrial machine, you can select firmer leathers such as one of our sheepskin (lamb leather - range followed).
For the two-tone version : we chose leather from the Satinlys range (split to a thickness of 0.8 mm) with a split suede leather (thickness of 1.4 mm) to vary the textures.
For the hand-stitched version : we chose a semi-soft, semi-firm cowhide leather with a thickness of 1.5 mm (range not followed by Venus).
Some examples :
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*Be careful for the crocodile sheepskin version, you need an industrial machine.
For the two-tone and hand-stitched version, go to the bottom of the page for additional information (tutorial).
CLASSIC VERSION
FULL TUTORIAL VIDEO
1. TRACE THE PATTERN
Using a silver pencil, trace the pattern pieces on the grain side of the leather. Mark the centers with a silver pencil or by making a small notch of 1 mm in the leather (see the lines on the pattern).
Also mark the position of the eyelets on parts P1.
Pay attention to the positioning of the pieces on the leather skin, keep scraps to make the lace (see step 18).
Also trace pieces P2 and P3 in the lining and P4 in the texon (mark the middles).
2. Cut out the different pieces
Cut out the different pieces of leather and lining with a cutter or a pair of scissors. Also cut out part P4 from the texon.
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3. Prepare the bag strap
Cut strip P7 in two following the dotted lines (to have two strips 7 cm wide and 65 cm long). Then, glue the two strips, back to back (flesh to flesh), with leather contact glue.
Option: add tear-resistant material to the ends to reinforce the strap.
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Flatten the bonding with a steel roller.
From this large doubled strip, cut 2 strips 2.5 cm wide and 65 cm long.
4. Work the slices
Before assembly, work the edges of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 pieces P5.
- the 2 widths of the 2 pieces P1 (tint on the top 5 cm only, the rest of the widths will be hidden by the pieces P5).
- only 3 of the 4 sides of the 2 pieces P6: do not work the upper length.
The other slices will be worked on at the end of the assembly.
The edge work is done with edge finish/paint. You need to apply 2 to 3 finishing coats. For more information we invite you to consult the guide below.
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5. PREPARE THE DIFFERENT PIECES
Place tear-resistant material on the top of the 2 P5 pieces for approximately 7 cm.
Apply double-sided tape over the entire length of pieces P5. Then, insert the rectangular loops and fold over 2.5 cm. Do not remove the double sided material along its entire length.
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Put double sided on:
- the 2 widths of one of the pieces P1 on the back of the leather. Do not put any on the second piece P1.
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1 on the back of the leather.
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1 on the right side of the leather (see step 10).
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6. SEW THE BODY OF THE BAG
Glue part P1 with double side on one of the widths of the second part P1 which does not have double side. Glue wrong side on right side, 1 cm.
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Then, sew the two pieces P1 to this width.
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Glue with the double side 1.5 cm from the bottom of piece P1 one of the pieces P5 on the seam line. Flatten the bonding with a steel roller.
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Sew twice, starting at the bottom so that the rectangular loop does not interfere with the seam.
With the double side, glue the second width of P1 to the other piece P1. Glue wrong side on right side, 1 cm.
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Sew this width. Be careful not to sew the part underneath.
Glue and sew the second piece P5 to the side of P1 which has just been sewn.
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7. INSTALL THE RIVETS
Make two Ø 3 mm holes below the rectangular loops of parts P5.
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Then, install T3 rivets with the tool of your choice.
ACCESSORIES INSTALLATION GUIDE >
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8. PREPARE THE FACING P6
Place a magnetic top on parts P6. The position of the clasp will depend on the position of your facing in the bag (see step 13) .
Put double-sided tape on the widths of one of the pieces P6 (on the back of the leather).
Glue one of the widths of P6 which has double side to the width of the second piece P6 which does not have double side. Glue wrong side on right side, 1 cm.
Then, sew the two P6 pieces together along the width that has just been glued.
Glue the second width of P6 with the double side and sew to close the facing.
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9. PREPARE THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG
Glue the Texon piece P4 to the center of the leather piece P3, on the reverse side.
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Drill the 4 Ø 3 mm holes for the bag feet.
Screw on the bag feet.
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10. SEW THE BOTTOM TO THE BAG
Glue, edge to edge, right sides together, piece P3 (bottom of bag) on the bottom of P1. Use the middles of the pieces to stick in the right place.
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Hold everything together with sewing clips.
Then, sew all around the bottom of the bag using the texon to make a nice rounding (sew as close as possible to the texon).
Glue the leather edges of the bottom of the bag to the Texon part to avoid excess thickness once the bag is turned over.
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Turn the bag inside out.
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11. MAKE THE LINING (here alcantara)
Sew the two pieces P2 edge to edge and right sides together on both widths.
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Using the middles, position the bottom of the liner bag (P3) right sides together on P2. Hold with sewing clips.
Sew 1 cm all the way around.
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Notch the rounding.
12. SEW THE FACING ONTO THE LINING
On the back of the leather and on the bottom of P6, put double sided 1 cm from the edge.
Glue the right side of the lining P2 to the back of the facing P6, 1 cm from the edge. Be careful to match the seams correctly.
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Sew the facing to the lining 5 mm from the edge.
13. SEW THE LINING INTO THE BAG
Insert the liner inside the bag. Glue the facing to the top of the bag with the double side (wrong side against wrong side).
Stagger the middles to avoid excess thickness. Be careful to position the facing correctly in relation to the position of the magnetic top so that it is centered (see step 8).
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Sew all around the top of the bag 5 mm from the edge.
14. INSTALL THE EYELETS
Make Ø 11 mm holes for the eyelets in the locations provided on the pattern (see part P1).
Install the rolling eyelets with the installation kit.
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15. WORKING THE SLICES
Work the top slices of the bag.
16. PREPARE THE SHOULDER STRAP
Take the strips cut in step 3. On one of the strips, work one of the ends into a pointed shape.
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On the same strap, make 5 holes of Ø 3 mm spaced 2.5 cm apart (center to center). Make the first hole 8 cm from the pointed end.
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On the other strap, make an oblong hole (chapure) 6 cm from one of the ends. To make a chainring, make two Ø 3 mm holes spaced approximately 2 cm apart and connect them with a cutter.
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Sew all around the straps.
Work the edges of the strips.
Make a loop: cut a strip 1 cm wide. The length is equal to 4x the thickness + 2x the width of the strap.
Example for a laminated strip 2 mm thick: (4 x 2) + (2 x 25) = 58 mm.
Assemble the two ends of the loop with a staple or a stitch.
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Insert the loop at the oblong hole. Then, pass the belt buckle through the loop and fold the strap over 6 cm to be able to block the loop.
Keep the strap folded and make a hole (Ø 3 mm) 2 cm from the center of the chainstay. Then, install a T3 rivet.
Make a second hole about 3 cm (center to center) from the first hole. Block the loop between the two holes and install a second rivet.
Assemble the two straps by passing the pointed end through the belt buckle.
17. ATTACH THE STRAP
Attach the strap to the rectangular loops with rivets.
18. MAKE AND PUT THE LACE
Make the lace: cut 2 strips of leather 2 cm wide and 50 cm long. Assemble the 2 strips widthwise and sew them.
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Fold the lace on itself and sew 3 mm from the edge. Help yourself from two sides.
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Work the edges of the lace.
Finally, pass the lace through the eyelets and tie a knot.
Option : if you do not want to tie your own lace, we advise you to take 1 meter of round leather lace Ø 5 mm.
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TWO-COLOR VERSION
The pattern for this version is included in the pattern for the classic version. The only difference with the classic version is that part P1 is divided in two.
Video of the two-tone version
The necessary leather
- 1 skin of split calf leather - velvet - 0.65 m² (area given for information only) - 1.4 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS leather - 30 x 40 cm - 0.8 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS leather - 20 x 30 cm - 0.8 mm thick
Follow the same steps as the classic version except for the following steps:
Steps 1 and 2 - Cutting the pieces
Exhibit P1 is divided into two parts. You have to cut the right pieces from the right leather (crust suede leather or smooth leather). Be careful when tracing the pattern and cutting out the pieces.
- Parts P1-1, P6 and P7 will be cut from the suede crust.
- Parts P1-2, P3 and P5 will be cut from smooth leather.
Step 4 - Tench work
Before assembly, work the edges of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 pieces P5,
- the upper length of the 2 pieces P1-2.
Between step 5 and step 6 - Assemble part P1
Put double sided on:
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1-2 (on the back of the leather).
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1-2 (on the right side of the leather).
- the 2 widths of one of the pieces P1-2 (on the back of the leather). Do not put any on the second piece P1-2.
- the 2 widths of one of the pieces P1-1 (on the back of the leather). Do not put any on the second part P1-1.
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1-1 (on the back of the leather)
Glue the top length of the 2 pieces P1-2 with the right sides together to the bottom length of the 2 pieces P1-1. Glue on 1 cm.
Then, sew at 3 mm.
Exhibits P1-1 and P1-2 now form part P1.
From step no. 6 and until the end, repeat the steps of the classic version.
HAND SEWING VERSION
Don't have a sewing machine or is your family machine not powerful enough to sew leather? Opt for the hand sewing version (saddle stitch or simplified hole sewing), accessible to beginners!
Video of the hand sewing version
HAND SEWING LEATHER
Discover, in the guide below, the essential points to know before starting to sew leather by hand.
VIEW THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE POINT SELLIER SEWING GUIDE >
The necessary leather
- 1 skin of semi-soft, semi-firm or firm cowhide leather - thickness 1.5 mm - surface area 0.45 m² (surface area given for information only).
- 1 strap in vegetable tanned collar leather - Thickness 1.9 mm - width 25 mm - length 120 cm.
For this version, there is no lining or texon (see the list of accessories at the top of the blog article) .
GET THE PATTERN
The hand-stitched version of the bucket bag pattern is on sale on our site in digital version (PDF to print in full size and assemble) .
1. Cut out the pieces
Trace and cut out the different pieces of leather with a cutter. Also mark the position of the eyelets, the magnetic top and the bag feet.
Hold the pieces with masking tape or a weight.
For the simplified sewing version: punch the 1.2 mm diameter holes with a round punch.
For the saddle stitch sewing version: mark the sewing points with a punching claw.
2. Work the slices
Before assembly, work the edges of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 pieces P5,
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1,
- 3 sides of the 2 pieces P6 (do not work the upper length) .
3. Sew the body of the bag
Assemble the two pieces P1 together (edge to edge) on one of the widths with a lacing seam.
Lacing sewing technique:
- Cut a thread (polyester or linen): take an armful = length with outstretched arms so you don't have to handle meters of thread.
- Thread a needle at each end of the thread (see the sewing guide).
VIEW THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE POINT SELLIER SEWING GUIDE >
- Position the two pieces P1 next to each other.
- Insert the needles into the first holes of each piece P1 (face to face).
- Take a needle and insert it into the hole diagonally (like tying a shoe).
- Do the same with the second needle and so on.
- Once you reach the bottom of the piece, go back up by sewing in the other direction.
- Tie a knot to close the seam.
Watch the video at 01:05 min.
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Sew the second width of P1 in the same way.
4. Sew the bottom of the bag
Drill the 4 Ø 3 mm holes and screw in the bag feet.
Place a patch of self-adhesive leather on the bag foot screws so that they are not visible inside the bag. We sell them on our site: self-adhesive leather protective circles - BLACK - Reference DA066.
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Sew the bottom of piece P1 onto the piece P3. Sew wrong sides together with the simplified sewing technique or with a saddle stitch seam ( do not lace as in the previous step ).
VIEW THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE POINT SELLIER SEWING GUIDE >
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5. Sew the facing
Place a magnetic top on pieces P6 at the location indicated on the pattern.
Assemble pieces P6 by sewing the two widths together, in the same way as sewing the sides of pieces P1 (a lacing) .
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Sew piece P6 to the top of piece P1. Sew wrong sides together with a simplified seam or saddle stitch.
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6. Work the slices
Work the top edges of the bag with slice dye.
7. Sew the pieces P5
Insert the rectangular loops in the center of parts P5. Then, sew pieces P5 onto the top of P1 with a simplified seam or saddle stitch.
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8. Install the eyelets
Make 11 mm diameter holes for the eyelets in the locations provided on the pattern.
Then, install the eyelets (see instructions in the eyelet box) .
9. Make the thong
Take the collar leather strap and work the edges with tokonole or edge finishing.
To prepare and attach the strap to the bag, repeat steps no. 16 and no. 17 of the classic version.
10. Pass the lace through the eyelets
Take the Ø5 mm round lace and pass it through the eyelets.
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YOU HAVE FINISHED !
Classic version
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Hand sewing version
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