Sac isotherme - tuto

In this blog post, learn how to make a durable and chic leather lunch bag. With its insulated lining, this bag will carry your meals fresh every day.

Supplies
Max cost: 35,00 €
The products needed to complete this tutorial
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  • WIDTH: 19mm 24mm 44mm
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  • CONDITIONING: Per 20 Per 100
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From
Sale price2,30 €
  • FINISHING: Brass Aged silver Gun barrel Aged brass Nickel plated old copper old nickel
  • CONDITIONING: Per 5 Per 50

THE NECESSARY MATERIAL

  • 1 calfskin/cowhide leather skin approximately 1 mm thick and with a surface area of ​​0.65 m² (surface area given as an indication)
  • 1 leather strap with a thickness of approximately 1.6 mm, a width of 19 mm and a length of 120 cm
  • 4 T3 rivets
  • 1 collar button T3
  • 3 snap fasteners of Ø15 mm
  • 1 belt buckle 20 mm wide
  • 1 jar of slice dye
  • Insulated lining (not for sale on our site, available in haberdashery)
  • 1 cutter
  • 1 round punching cutter - Ø3 mm
  • Double-sided

GET THE BOSS

Two options to buy the pattern

  • in digital version (PDF to print in actual size and assemble)
  • in paper version (B1 poster that you will receive at home)

For sale on our website (reference KA185)!

Boss
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Patron Lunch bag en cuir à coudre à la machine - Deco Cuir - Deco CuirPatron Lunch bag en cuir à coudre à la machine - Deco Cuir - Deco Cuir
From
Sale price3,00 €
  • VERSION: Paper PDF PDF with Commercial License


FULL TUTORIAL VIDEO

1. TRANSFER THE PATTERN ONTO THE LEATHER

Using a silver pencil, trace the pattern pieces onto the leather and lining. Also mark the position of the different holes.


2. CUT OUT THE DIFFERENT PARTS

Cut out the different pieces of leather and lining with a cutter or a pair of scissors.

To reinforce the leather, glue a piece of tear-proof tape (or a small piece of leather) at the holes. Punch the different holes with a Ø 3 mm round punch on the leather.

3. PREPARE THE DIFFERENT PARTS

Place double-sided tape on the three sides of piece P1(b), on the reverse side of the leather (see diagram).

On this same part P1(b), work the edges with an edge finish. The work on the edges is done with an edge finish/paint. It is necessary to put 2 to 3 layers of finish. For more information we invite you to consult the guide below.

SEE THE GUIDE >

Also work the slices of the 2 small widths of one of the P2 pieces (facing). Place double-sided tape on the 4 sides of this same P2 piece which has the painted edges. And on the two lengths of the second P2 piece.


4. PREPARE THE STRAP

Cut 72 cm from the leather strap.

Transfer the pattern of piece P3 onto the strap. To make the oblong hole (the sash), make two holes of Ø 3 mm spaced 2 cm apart and connect them with a cutter to hollow out the central part.

On the other end, work the tip into a point. The 4 slotted holes will be drilled in step 11.

From the leftover strip, cut another 15 cm piece to make the handle (if the leather is soft, don't hesitate to double the handle or use sugherite - Ref CA195 ) . Transfer the pattern for part P4: cut the ends into a point and make the Ø 3 mm holes in the locations provided on the pattern.

Work the slices of the two strips P3 and P4.

5. ASSEMBLE PART P1

Assemble the bottom of the P1 pieces by overlapping the P1(b) piece by 1 cm on the P1(a) piece, wrong side against right side. Then, sew 2 mm from the edge.

Screw the collar button onto the last hole of the P3 strap.

Insert the loop into the loop of the strap.

Then, using double-sided tape, glue the strap P3 to the location provided on the part P1 of the collar button P1(b) to the rivet P1(a).

Using rivets, attach the strap to the main piece at the two locations provided on the pattern.

Sew the strap twice (to avoid having to sew the bottom seam and to avoid excess thickness). Sew about 2 cm from the rivet and the collar button.

Fix the handle P4 with rivets on the part P1(a), at the location provided on the pattern.

Sew the two sides of pieces P1 together, wrong sides together (always piece P1(b) on piece P1(a)).

Turn the bag inside out and sew the two corners right sides together.


6. ASSEMBLE THE FACING

Assemble the facing with the double-sided piece P2 which has the painted edges (worked in step 3). Glue this piece to the ends of the other piece P2. Glue wrong side to right side about 1 cm away. Then, sew the two ends 2 mm from the edge.


7. ASSEMBLE THE LINING

Assemble the two P5 lining pieces together, right sides together. Only sew the bottom and the 2 sides.

Then, sew the corners right side to right side.

leather sewing tool

8. ATTACH THE LINING TO THE FACING

Glue the right side of the P5 lining to the wrong side of the P2 facing, 1 cm from the edge. Be careful to match the seams.

Sew the facing onto the lining 5 mm from the edge.


9. SEW THE LINING INTO THE BAG

Insert the lining inside the bag. Glue the facing to the top of the bag with the double-sided tape (wrong side against wrong side). Stagger the middles to avoid excess thickness.

Sew all around the top of the bag 5 mm from the edge.


10. ATTACH THE SNAPS

Re-pierce the holes of the snap fasteners to pierce the facing. Attach the three snap fasteners. Pay attention to the direction of the snap fasteners:

  • For the middle button, attach the two parts towards the inside of the bag.
  • For the buttons on both ends, attach both parts to the outside of the bag.

11. DRILL THE STRAP HOLES

Make the 4 adjustment holes at the end of the P3 strap. Make a small 3 mm notch above the holes to allow the collar button to pass through.


12. WORK THE TOP SLICES

Work the top slices of the bag with a slice dye.

You're done!

Your achievements
Do not hesitate to send us photos

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