THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
To complete this tutorial, you will need:
- 1 or 2 skin(s) of goatskin or suede split leather, supple, thickness 1.3/1.4 mm. We recommend an area of 0.85 m2 or 2 skins of 0.45 m2.
- Fabric for the lining ( 140 or 120 cm wide x 90 cm).
- 1 spool of polyester thread n°30 - 1000 meters
- 1 metal zipper - Length 14 cm
- 1 pair of leather bag handles - 18 mm - length 70 cm
- 8 T3 double cap rivets
And the following material:
- 1 round punch Ø3 mm
- 1 stainless steel ruler
- 1 cutter
- 1 roll of double-sided tape - width 4 mm
Machine sewing leather
Discover, in the guide below, the essential points to know before embarking on machine sewing of leather (with a family machine).
Trick
To finish the seam, cut the polyester thread flush and burn it.
1. CUT THE PAPER PATTERN
Cut out the 12 pieces of the paper pattern and position them on the leather skin(s). Seam allowances are included in the dimensions given below.
Presentation of the parts:
- P1 / P2 / P3 / P4: 19 x 43 cm
- P5 / P6: 16.5 x 34.5 cm
- P7 / P8: 16 x 18.5 cm
- P9 / P10 / P11 / P12 : 2.5 x 27 cm. Depending on the size of your skin you can cut 2 strips of 54 cm (instead of 4 small strips).
2. DRILL AND CUT THE LEATHER
Hold the pieces together with masking tape (to make cutting easier).
Make the 8 holes of 3 mm (for the installation of the rivets of the bag handles) indicated on the pattern using a 3 mm cookie cutter.
Then, using a cutter and a ruler: cut out all the pattern pieces.
3. CUT THE LINING
Cut parts P1 to P6 in the lining.
The 3 mm holes should only be drilled at the very end (to avoid offsets).
4. ASSEMBLE THE MAIN PARTS
Using sewing pliers, position part P1 on P3 right sides together (check that the holes overlap).
Then only sew 1 cm from the edge the side indicated by the arrows on the pattern. Start the seam from the top to avoid any shifting. Do the same for parts P2 and P4.
Overcut if necessary after sewing to have a perfect finish.
5. OPEN THE SEAMS
On the underside of the leather, open the seams with masking tape and a steel roller.
6. TOPSTITCH
Option if you are comfortable with machine sewing: topstitch each side of the seam 3 mm from the edge on parts P1/P3 and P2/P4.
7. SEW THE SIDES
Using sewing pliers, position part P5 at the top of one of the lengths of part P1/P3. Sew right sides together the side (1 cm apart). Always start the seam from the top to avoid any misalignment. Do the same for part P6 on the other side.
Then, open the seams with double-sided tape.
8. SEW THE SIDES - COMPLETE THE ASSEMBLY
Position part P2/P4 along the lengths of parts P5 and P6. Sew the sides right sides together (always start the seam from the top). Then, open the seams with double-sided tape.
9. SEW THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG
Sew the bottom of the bag always right sides together and 1 cm apart. Then open the seams.
Make sure the seams overlap.
Then, open the seams with double-sided tape.
10. EVEN ANGLES BEFORE SEWING
If necessary, even out the angles by cutting off the excess leather.
11. SEW THE CORNERS
Join the corners of the bag and sew right sides together. Do not open the seams as in the previous steps.
12. RETURN THE BAG
Return the bag.
OPTIONAL
BEFORE SEWING THE LINING
In order to give a more "square" shape to your shopping bag: place magnetic TOPs or strong press studs on each side of your bag about 5 cm from the top and 4 cm from the side.
13. SEW THE ZIPPER
Position, with double-sided tape, the zipper at the location indicated on the pattern (P7). Sew the zipper with a presser foot for zipper.
14. SEW THE INSIDE POCKET
Put P8 on P7, wrong sides together. Sew, flat, all sides of the pocket.
OPTION: it is also possible to sew an invisible/slit pocket directly into the lining.
15. SEW THE TOP TAPE OF THE BAG
Assemble across the width, the 4 strips (P9/P10/P11/P12) right sides together to make a circle.
Do not fully sew the neck tape so you can adjust the length in step 17.
Finally, open the seams.
16. ASSEMBLE THE LINING
Assemble the different pieces of the lining without topstitching and without opening the seams (there is no need, unless your lining is very thick). Before completing the assembly, sew the pocket to the top of the lining and to the right side. Make sure it is centered.
17. POSITION THE TAPE
Put adhesive tape 1 cm from the edge of the neck tape.
Then come and position the lining, little by little, on the adhesive tape.
Cut off excess tape and stitch together. Before assembly, do not hesitate to check the length of the neckband by positioning the lining in the bag using sewing pliers.
18. SEW THE TAPE ON THE LINING
Sew the neck tape on the lining at 0.5 mm.
19. GLUE THE TAPE ON THE TOP OF THE BAG
Position the lining in the shopping bag and glue the strip using adhesive tape.
20. TOPSTITCH
Topstitch the top of the bag.
21. RIVET THE HANDLES
Rivet the handles with the installation tool of your choice.
YOUR TOTE BAG IS FINISHED!
Tips: you can also work the edges of the handles with a dye. Remember to waterproof your bag with a water-based spray.
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