Before we begin the manufacturing stage, here are some technical basics.
LEXICON
HORNS
The lugs are located on either side of the case and allow the watch strap to be secured using a pump.
BETWEEN HORN
This is the width between 2 lugs of the watch case.
SPRING PUMPS OR BARS
PUMPS : also called “bars” are essential for installing the watch strap to the case.
There are mainly 2 models:
- The classic spring pumps/bars which are the most used.
- Quick pumps or flash pumps with lugs (compatible with all types of watches) .
There are also other models such as rivet T bars also called "screw pumps".
The ideal is to use the original pumps of your watch (only if they are classic) , in which case you will easily find them on specialized sites. If your original watch strap has quick pumps (with lugs) we advise you to buy new ones otherwise you risk damaging your leather strap trying to remove them.
For this guide, we mainly used the classic pumps (especially in the main video) . Here is an explanatory video for a watch strap with quick pumps (lug pumps) .
THE PUMP HUNTING TOOL
Beyond the tools needed for leatherwork, this tool will be essential for removing and putting the pumps on your case.
The watch spring bar usually has 2 different ends: one end with a fork for integrated spring bars and one end with a point for cases with drilled lugs. This tool is also used to remove the pin buckles from your watch straps (watch buckles also have spring bars) .
As previously stated the pump flusher generally has 2 different tips for drilled horns or for non-drilled horns.
The system is the same for watch buckles.
How to remove the spring bars to change the watch strap?
Important : Always remove the pumps from the reverse side of the bracelet in case the pump chaser slips and thus avoid scratching the case or damaging the grain of the leather.
Steps to remove your watch strap:
- Lay the open bracelet flat and upside down on a clean surface.
- Depending on the type of horns:
UNDRILLED HORNS
Carefully insert the fork of the pump chaser between the bracelet and the lug of the watch case. Look for the part of the pump where it is possible to catch (where there is a relief) and push gently inwards. Release the pump then repeat the operation with the other part of the bracelet.
PIERCED HORNS
Push the tip of the pump plunger into one of the pierced lugs of the case to release the pump. Then, gently remove the bracelet with your other hand. Finally, repeat the operation with the other part of the bracelet.
The same procedure must be followed when you want to put the strap back on the case. You just have to make sure that both sides of the pump are locked (pull the strap slightly to make sure) .
Watch buckles
Watch buckles are usually pin buckles with a spring bar (pump) that can be removed to easily insert the buckle onto your watch strap. The buckle pumps are released in the same way as the watch strap pumps: drilled or undrilled side.
How to change a broken watch strap buckle?
Just like removing the strap from the case, we recommend doing this step on the back of the watch ( to avoid damaging the grain of the leather if it slips) .
All you need is a replacement watch strap buckle (see above) and a pump removal tool. To find out the required buckle width, measure the width of the strap at your old buckle and not at the lug width: some straps may be slightly thinner at the buckle (2 mm less) .
Now that the basics have been reviewed, let's move on to making a watch strap.
What size watch strap should I choose?
We will guide you in choosing the width and length necessary to have a watch strap adapted to the size of your wrist.
Important : we do not recommend taking measurements of one of your old watch straps which, over time, may have become deformed/shrunk ( heat, humidity, perspiration, etc. ).
The first step is to measure the inside lug spacing to know the required width of the watch strap.
Standard watch strap widths are: 16mm - 18mm - 20mm and 22mm.
The width of the lug, which is equivalent to the width of your watch strap, will allow you to define the total length required for the strap. Please note: if the "original" strap is too small, the total length will need to be adjusted (refer instead to the wrist circumference). We invite you to refer to our table below which presents the "standards".
Zoom in on the different sizes of watch straps
| Bracelet width or lug dimension | Commercial size | Bracelet lengths | Wrist circumference |
| 16 mm | S | Long strand: 105 mm Short strand: 65 mm Total length: 170 mm |
< 16.5 cm |
| 18 mm | M | Long strand: 115 mm Short strand: 75 mm Total length: 190 mm |
16.5 to 18.5 cm |
| 20 mm | L | Long strand: 120 mm Short strand: 80 mm Total length: 200 mm |
18.5 to 20.5 cm |
| 22 mm | XL | Long strand: 130 mm Short strand: 90 mm Total length: 220 mm |
> 20.5 cm |
*Please note that the lengths indicated correspond to the lengths of the strands after sewing and without the length of the watch buckle. Table given for information purposes only.
Standard bracelets are approximately a "size L" length of about 20 cm. Typically, a man's wrist measures 15 to 19 cm while a woman's wrist measures 14 to 18 cm .
What is short strand and long strand?
The length of the bracelet is the addition of the short strand (also called the loop strand) and the long strand (also called the hole strand).
To put on the watch easily, the short strand is at the top of the case and the long strand is at the bottom of the case.
The width at the buckle may be 2mm less than the width at the lug.
Example for a size L : the width at the lug is 20 mm and the width at the buckle is 18 mm.
It is usually indicated on watch straps the sizes 20/20 or 20/18…
On our pattern, we tried to offer several variations of the standards (18/16, 18/18, 20/20...) .
How many holes are there on the long strand?
Usually there are:
- 7 holes on a women's watch strap
- 9 to 10 holes on a men's watch strap
The center of the first hole is located 2.5 cm from the end of the watch strap ( where there is a pointed, trapezoidal, round end, etc. ) except for straps that have a difference of 2 mm between the lug width and the width of the buckle. In this case, the first hole is generally located 2 cm away.
What is the diameter of the watch strap holes?
Just like the loop on the short strand, the diameter of the holes on the long strand is equal to the width of the buckle pin.
The diameter of a hole on a watch strap is on average 1.5 to 2 mm.
The spacing between each hole is 7mm (center to center).
A tool that can help you make watch strap holes:
Make a chapure
On the short strand it is necessary to make a loop in order to pass the pin of the watch buckle. The width of the oblong hole is defined by the width of the pin. Its length is on average 1 cm .
How to make watch strap loops?
There are usually 2 loops on the short strand . The first is blocked by a seam on each side (seam of the bracelet and seam at the buckle about 5 mm from the edge) , the second is free. It is essential to block one of the loops in the seam to prevent the mobile loop from escaping.
The width of a loop is on average 5 mm, its length is equal to 4 times the total thickness of the leather added to 2 times the width.
For example, if our watch strap has a thickness of 2 mm and a width of 16 mm: (4x2) + (2x16) = 40 mm
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Zoom on the cutting of the long and short strand on the external side and lining
We will discuss the choice of leather for the external strands and lining (animal, thickness, etc.) in the next step.
We invite you now to download our free pattern which offers the 4 standard sizes of watch strap.
To make a watch strap you need to cut out 4 pieces: 2 external strands and 2 lining strands. All dimensions are given on our pattern.
CUTTING EXAMPLE FOR SIZE L 20/20:
The dimensions are given according to our assembly method. We remind you that there are several methods and that everyone must appropriate the information provided (no one has the absolute truth).
So that you can better understand why there are areas to trim, here is a photo of the result after sewing.
CHOICE OF LEATHER
What leather should you choose to make a watch strap?
Classic watch straps are generally made from vegetable or mineral tanned calf/cowhide leather (for the outer strands the leather does not necessarily need to be vegetable tanned) .
We invite you to consult the guide below to learn more about the difference between vegetable tanned and mineral tanned leather.
Here is a selection of vegetable tanned cowhides. We particularly like our range of butts which are perfectly suited to this (thickness of around 1.6 mm) :
If you want to give a more luxurious side to your creation, you can choose reptile leather (alligator or crocodile) , snake (boa, python, etc.) , fish (shark, stingray, etc.) or ostrich. Be careful, for most of these leathers, the sale and import are regulated (CITES).
For this type of leather which generally has a low thickness, we advise you to reinforce it with vegetable tanned leather 1 to 1.2 mm thick (see the video a little further down) .
Here is a selection of leathers for sale on our site:
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What thickness of leather should I choose to make a watch strap?
Typically a watch strap with a flat structure has a total thickness of about 2.5 mm . The thickness can go up to 4/5 mm if you choose to make a domed structure (we will discuss this a little further down) .
If your leather for the outer strands has a thickness between 1.5 and 2 mm, we advise you to select a vegetable tanned lining leather of 0.5 mm thickness.
If your leather for the outer strands is less than 1.5 mm thick, we recommend choosing a 1 mm thick vegetable tanned lining leather.
If you choose a thin and fragile leather (like exotic leathers for example), it must be reinforced. Do not hesitate to watch the video below to learn more about this technique.
Which leather should I choose for the lining strands of the watch strap?
Lining leathers must be hypoallergenic, i.e. vegetable tanned to avoid any risk of allergies. We recommend selecting vegetable tanned leather that is 0.5 to 1 mm thick. The leather may appear "white" at first, but it will develop a patina over time and take on color (it will tan).
It is possible to apply a thin layer of natural gum (tragacanth, arabic or tokonole) to the back of the watch strap to protect it (a minimum) from perspiration.
For the choice of glue we recommend a solvent-free, water-based glue .
Is it possible to give a rounded effect to the bracelet?
There are 2 bracelet structures: either a flat structure or a domed structure. In this guide we will only see the flat structure.
To discover and learn more about the domed structure, we invite you to register for our training which takes place in our premises in Campbon.
To not leave you wanting more: the curved leather is generally made with a core. That is to say, a natural vegetable tanned leather of approximately 1.6 to 1.9 mm thick and which is trimmed and glued between the external strand (whose width is extended by a few millimeters) and the lining strand.
Please note that the curved structure is not done over the entire length of the strands.
- On the short strand, it stops at the level of the loop seam.
- On the long strand, it stops 5mm from the first hole for the watch buckle.
To give a rounded effect to your bracelet, it is essential to master the trimming of the leather. Do not hesitate to consult our complete guide on this subject.
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We recommend you watch the video from "Atelier SANG BLEU" to learn more about domed watch straps here:
What are the steps involved in making a watch strap?
Zoom on saddle stitch sewing
It is not possible to sew a watch strap by machine, sewing would be impossible at the loops.
Check out the guide on how to saddle stitch leather before you start making your watch strap.
Video
1. Detach the old strap from the watch case
Using a pump tool, detach the strap from the watch case. Also detach the buckle from the watch strap. You can keep the same buckle or choose to change it (we sell them on our site).
2. Define the bracelet size
Measure the lug width and then measure the buckle width to choose the right pattern. The buckle width is also 18 mm. You will therefore need to refer to a size 18/18 bracelet.
3. Cut out the pattern pieces
Cut out the pattern pieces by selecting the strap size that corresponds to the dimensions of the lug width and the buckle width (measured in the previous step). Then glue them onto texon or thin cardboard to stiffen the templates.
If the watch strap you want to remake is too small or much too big for you, we advise you to adjust the "standard dimensions" of our patterns. As a reminder, you can download the pattern here:
4. Cut the leather
Cut the 2 external strands with a cutter and using the templates. Do not hesitate to refer to the “Choosing the leather” step in our guide. Then make a clean cut on each end.
Using a round awl, score on each side of the dotted lines on the pattern (areas to be trimmed and watch buckle attachment area).
Then transfer these marks to the external strands (flesh side of the leather).
5. Cut out the lining
To cut the lining strands, we recommend cutting a strip at least 2 cm wider than the templates. The ideal is to overcut after gluing (to have a cleaner result).
6. Trim the ends of the outer strands
Make a new mark equivalent (in cm) to the distance between the end and the fold zone line. This mark will indicate the area to be trimmed with the knife. The idea is to have the same thickness over the entire strand when the end(s) are folded back (for pumps or watch buckles).
Trim all ends indicated on the pattern. Be careful not to remove too much material.
Then put some tear-proof tape ( width 6 or 8 mm ) in the center of the external strands to reinforce the bracelet and prevent the leather from stretching. Be careful not to put any on the fold areas.
7. Trim, glue and overcut the lining.
Lightly trim the 2 ends of the short strand (lining) and only the end at the pump for the long strand (lining) to avoid creating excess thickness. Do not forget to check the length of the short lining strand on the pattern in order to adjust the length before trimming (the width will be overcut after gluing).
Then make marks on the flesh side of the short strand to determine the gluing area. A mark 14 mm from the fold line at the level of the cap and another mark 10 mm at the level of the fold area for the pump.
Then proceed to glue the long strand and short strand lining. We recommend using a water-based leather glue (given that the strap is in contact with the skin). Be careful not to put glue on the fold areas.
For gluing the lining strand to the long strand, we recommend using a boat stitch: pull on the lining leather to give the leather a curved shape. Do not do this for the short strand.
Smooth and flatten with a pressure roller.
To complete this step, overcut the lining after gluing.
8. Make the chapure and work the loops
Position the template on the long strand and mark the location of the sash.
Make the bezel for the passage of the watch buckle pin using a round punch (diameter of the width of the buckle pin) and a cutter or a straight cutting knife.
Work the edge with a finishing gum (e.g. tragacanth or tokonole). We do not recommend using an edge finish for this part which is too subject to friction. Then use pliers (leather tips) to mark the fold.
In the leather, cut a 5 mm wide strip for the 2 strap loops.
As a reminder, the total length of the loop is equal to 4 times the thickness of the leather added to 2 times the width.
The movable loop will be sewn edge to edge. The second loop will be trimmed and only glued because it will be stuck between 2 seams.
Then work the edges of the loops with an edge finish.
Wait until the slices are dry and sew the movable loop.
Before passing the (non-movable) loop over the long strand, scratch the grain of the lining leather which will be glued (to facilitate the adhesion of the glue) .
Then proceed to glue the ends. At the pumps, use a needle to mark the fold.
On the short strand, pass the pin of the watch buckle through the loop.
The watch buckles also have a pump (for easy removal/replacement).
Then pass the loop (non-movable) over the short strand and proceed with gluing.
Use a smoothing knife to flatten the collage and mark the sewing lines (parallel to the loop).
9. Work the end of the watch strap
Mark the center of the bracelet and use a template to define the shape of the end of your bracelet: ogive, round, trapezoid, ellipse, etc.
Finish the cut by sanding the edges with an abrasive sponge. Then square the 2 sides of the bracelet.
10. Trace the sewing lines and mark the points
Below is an overview of the seam lines to be drawn.
Trace the seam line using a dry-point compass 3 mm from the edge.
Then mark the stitching points (do not pierce) with a punching claw.
11. Sew with saddle stitch
Sew the long and short strands with a saddle stitch. For the choice of thread, we recommend a diameter between 0.35 and 0.45 mm.
Don't forget to hammer the seams.
12. Work the edges of the bracelet and nourish the leather
Check the width of the watch strap before finishing the edge as it is possible that the leather has been worked.
Sand the edges and apply up to 3 coats of finish (sanding between each coat). Do not work the edges at the horns (to avoid creating excess thickness). Wax the edges to give them a shiny finish.
Nourish the leather with neatsfoot oil.
Optional: protect the lining side of the watch strap with a finishing rubber (here Tokonole).
13. Attach the bracelet to the case and make the holes on the long strand
Pass the mobile loop and attach the case to the bracelet.
Using the template, mark the position of the holes (7 to 10 holes) on the long strand. Then drill the holes: the diameter is equal to the width of the barb. Reminder: the spacing is 7 mm center to center.
A tool that can help you make watch strap holes:
The watch strap is finished!
WATCH STRAP MAINTENANCE OVER TIME
How to tighten a watch strap?
How do I know if my watch strap is the right size?
To know if your watch is the right size, you should only be able to pass your little finger between the clasp and your wrist. If your strap is much looser, it is not the right size.
How to maintain or clean a leather watch strap?
To keep your leather watch straps as long as possible, you must first take care of them. We advise you to store them in their case or stack them in a drawer of your wardrobe. This will also prevent you from scratching your watch case. To maintain it, you must of course pay attention to your movements and avoid any shocks. After a while, it is possible to arrange for the case to be polished in a workshop to reduce scratches and micro-scratches.
To go further, make your own leather watch case
Make a leather pouch to protect and store your watches.
We offer several different sizes to store 1, 2 or 3 watches.
Tutorial and free pattern here:
How to nourish and shine/revive a watch strap?
Here are a few tips to help you keep your watch strap in good condition for as long as possible:
- Avoid contact with water, humidity, perfume, body creams and prolonged contact with UV/sun rays.
- Change your watch or strap regularly to alternate and ensure the lifespan of your accessory.
- Use a soft cotton cloth to remove dust and dirt from the case and your bracelet. When the leather starts to become dull, put a drop of care (e.g. Saphir universal cream or grease) on your cloth and nourish the leather by rubbing the cloth gently (be careful not to put too much). We do not recommend using this cream on all leathers and we do not recommend using water or glycerine soap on your leather (except for smooth mineral-tanned cowhide leather).
- Do not overdo cleaning
Is it possible to change my metal or silicone watch strap for a leather watch strap?
Yes, it is absolutely possible to change a silicone or metal watch strap for a leather strap. The only condition is that your watch strap must be attached to the case using spring bars.
How do I repair the damaged edges of my bracelet?
- Detach the strap from the case (to avoid damaging it and to make the job easier).
- Sand the slices with an abrasive sponge (always in the same direction).
- Work all the slices, even those that are not damaged.
- Apply 1 to 2 coats of edge finish, sanding between each coat.
- Rub on beeswax and buff with a cloth.
- You can apply a coat to all sides of your bracelet.
To finish this guide, a question that some may ask themselves: on which wrist should you wear your watch?
Traditionally, a watch is worn on the wrist opposite the dominant hand. For example, right-handed people will wear the watch on the left side: this will reduce the risk of damaging the case (the hand that is least used) and will avoid any inconvenience (e.g. knocking over your glass of water to check the time 😉).
Are you interested in this guide and would you like to improve your skills and in particular learn the technique of curved structure?
Register for our training: “Training workshop - Making an alligator leather watch strap”. The training takes place in our premises in Loire-Atlantique in Campbon.
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You have completed your leather watch strap
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